Friday, February 6, 2009

Happy Friday 6 February 2009

We are presently in Ilse de Saintes a group of small islands off the southern coast of Guadeloupe.

Cruising in all its wonderful joys has its minute draw backs one of which can be the availability of technology i.e. internet access. Then off course we have all the beautiful site seeing to contend with (tsk, tsk, tsk). Please bear with us as we try to update the blog .
My husband says that I am building up an alibi for the slow updates. Well...

...How can you sit at a computer when there is so much to see and do and experience?
So sorry!-)

When I think about how close these islands really are to St. Croix (175 miles) it is staggering, unless you take the time to travel within the Caribbean you have no idea who your neighbors are. Many islands I had visited before but still many I have not.

Take for example Montserrat, who would think of going there after the volcanic eruption? Well, think again there is an underlying current that comes off that island which pulls you to it. Would I go back there absolutely! After seeing from a distance what Mother Nature is capable of I want to see more. Half of the island is uninhabited, the devastation is visible (see foto). Rivers of lava packed with mud and huge boulders now solidified flow from the side of Soufriere Volcano, creating an unusual gray landscape, one I never thought I would see first hand.

The other side is green and lush the vegetation dense and bright, hence why Monseratt was once dubbed The Emerald Isle of the Caribbean. You can see many new homes on the side of the mountains and on the coast. An active effort to bring back tourism and normalcy to the island is being made by the British government.

Then there is Guadeloupe. A statement all to itself. I am in love, yes again, with the small fishing village of Deshaise (pronounced Day Hay).

Will come back to this later, right now we need to get off the boat and explore Terre de Haut. As I look at the shoreline I can see cute gingerbread laced houses with beautiful gardens they are calling to me.

Montserrat

After the Customs confusion we departed Nevis later than we wanted, the wind was light and just about right on the nose (again!), but the seas were moderate, so we motorsailed the 32 miles to Montserrat. Hopefully when we turn around and start heading up the chain we’ll be able to do more pure sailing! Montserrat is the site of an active volcano, which literally “blew up” a dozen years ago, covering the old capital of Plymouth in mud and ash, causing the government to cut the island in half, leaving the southern half an abandoned “Exclusion Zone.” Rumblings and occasional dome collapses continue to spew smoke and ash into the sky, and on St. Croix we sometimes wake to find our cars with a thin layer of ash, as we are more or less downwind from Montserrat.

Not normally appearing on the standard tourism itinerary, from Nevis I had checked the web site that gives latest info on the volcano, and found that there was indeed a bit of activity early in January, but nothing had been noted for the past week. So as the island appeared out of the haze we were sort of transfixed on it, wondering what we’d see. We eventually realized that the “clouds” trailing westward from the island were mostly steam coming from the volcano, along with some ash. Any ideas of later sailing along the leeward side of the island on our way to Guadeloupe went into the trash can right then and there!

The small anchorage at Little Bay on the north end of the island was really pretty, with green, high cliffs all around, and only two other boats anchored there. We dropped anchor about 5:30, only a half hour or so before sunset, and we happily relaxed in the cockpit and watched the sun sink slowly through the steam and ash laden air, making for as brilliant an orange and golden sunset as we’ve ever seen.

The night was blessedly peaceful, and we rose early the next morning. It was Sunday, so there was no chance of getting cleared in, the weather forecast was really good for the 45 mile trek to Guadeloupe, so we upped anchor and set out in the dawn light. We motored around the northern end of the island before turning south, where the tradewinds had backed a little north of east, giving us a nice slant for the sail to Guadeloupe - alright!

As we sailed along only a mile or so offshore, we were able to see the amazing devastation the volcano had wreaked on the island. “The Hand of God” might be a good way to describe it…gigantic sections of the mountain were blown away and missing, and huge solidified rivers of lava and mud, strewn with boulders the size of large houses were impressive…no…that’s not strong enough. Maybe shocking? We could see what we think was the airport, half covered in many feet of some kind of goop, and homes sitting abandoned right next to half mile wide lava flows. Obviously many buildings and homes were swept away or completely covered. It was almost hypnotic we couldn’t take our eyes off until the island disappeared into the distance.

After the eruption many island residents left for points elsewhere, the government built many new homes on the northern part of the island, which we could also plainly see, as well as towers with warning sirens in case of eruptions. It must be a very interesting psychological challenge to live so closely to a “ticking time bomb.” I actually visited Montserrat about 30 years ago, and hiked up to and peered into the volcano’s bubbling, sulfur-stinky, crater lake. Glad I wasn’t there when it blew up!

If we have time on the way back we may just stop and explore Montserrat a little…in the meantime, we’re on our way to Guadeloupe, and we’re having a great sail!

Nevis is Nice

After a week or so hanging around St. Kitts we “braved the ocean” again for the quick and painless 7 mile passage over to Nevis. The anchorage there has a reputation for sometimes being a bit rolly (this time of year many/most anchorages in the Caribbean are prone to swells), so we had our fingers crossed as we picked up a mooring just north of Charlestown, the capital.
Backing up just a bit, the folks at the Customs office in St. Kitts told us we were okay to head to Nevis, and would need to check in there. But when we arrived at the Customs office in Nevis, the officer said we “weren’t in the system,” and told us we incorrectly had the originals of our clearance documents (the St. Kitts Immigration officer had given them to us, and said they were ours, even though Emmy questioned her about them), and then he looked at us stone faced and uttered the unhappy comment, “That’s a problem.”

Luckily, making puppy eyes and asking for his help seemed to do the trick, and he put us in the computer. Yay! Based on the weather forecasts I’d been listening to we wanted to leave Nevis for Montserrat in a few days on Saturday, and another Customs officer said he’d be there Saturday morning to clear us out (more to follow on this topic). We walked around Charlestown (birthplace of Alexander Hamilton) a little, picked up some local bread, tania, white yams, bananas, edeh and tomatoes from the little open market stalls and headed back to the boat.

The next day, we heard a knocking on the hull, which turned out to be Richard, from the boat moored next to us. He and Shelly had wintered in Venezuela, and were easing their way up the Caribbean, on their way to Florida, and invited us over for drinks that evening. We poked around town some more, and decided to rent a car the following day to see the rest of the island.

That evening on Richard and Shelly’s boat (Preferred Stock) they filled us in on the current situation in Venezuela. The cost of living is very low, and cruisers have for quite awhile enjoyed staying there during hurricane season, but crime is spiraling out of control under the Chavez government, and he’s building and arming his own private army. There have been many robberies and some attacks on cruisers there, and many folks are pulling out. Venezuela wasn’t on our list of places to visit to stat with, but now it’s on the “Avoid like the plague” list!

When I went to the rental car office the next day I ran into another group of sailors (from “Brass Tacks“) who were doing the same thing, and they asked if we’d be interested in having dinner at “Miss June’s” that evening. They said Miss June has an old home on the north end of the island and cooks dinner for parties of six or more, and they were only three - I said I’d ask our group and track them down later.

Our group of four packed into a little Toyota and headed off, stopping first to pay a quick visit to the local manager of the company I used to work for, just to say hi and pick up any local information that might help us have fun and stay out of trouble! The biggest news item she shared was that Hurricane Omar had heavily damaged much of the Four Seasons resort on the island, and the insurers were in some kind of squabble over paying the claim, so the resort will stay mostly closed this year, causing a lot of negative economic impact on the island.

Next we visited a privately owned botanical garden on an old estate. Being a green thumb/plant enthusiast, Emmy was in heaven, as there were gazillions of tropical flower varieties, orchids, bromeliads and fruit trees! Unbelievable water features. On our way over the hill we stopped briefly at the house where Admiral Horatio Nelson lived and married. We wound our way around the coast on newly paved roads, through little villages, with breathtaking views of the Atlantic. Nevis is fairly mountainous (dormant volcano), with the high mountains usually draped in clouds, and is a lush and green island.

We walked around another restored plantation house, visited Nesbit Plantation the home of the former Francis “Fanny” Nesbit who married Admiral Nelson. Heading back to Charlestown we stopped at a little house where a lady was making red clay pottery. She told us where she went to dig the clay, and showed us how she fires the pieces the old-fashioned way without the benefit of a kiln. Eventually we came across “Miss June’s,” and stopped to see if the folks I had met had made dinner reservations. When a fellow answered our knocking on the door, Emmy turned to me and said, I went to school with his brother s on St. Croix!”

It turned out that Miss June’s sons (Mestier‘s) had lived with their father and gone to school on St. Croix, and we had a nice chat with her, but they weren’t geared up for cooking, so dinner was off. We headed back to Charlestown and piled into the dinghy to head home for the night. We stopped off at “Brass Tacks” to make sure they knew Miss June’s was a no go, and they invited us aboard for drinks (hmmm…is there a pattern developing here?). They’re from New Hampshire, and are down for the winter, having left their boat in Antigua for the summer. From Nevis they’re heading back to Antigua for a few days and then turning south, so we may see them again.

We puttered around a couple more days waiting for the weather over the ocean to moderate a little, for our next hop to Montserrat. Nevis was the site of the marriage of Lord Admiral Nelson of British Naval fame (Trafalgar) to local resident Fanny Nesbitt, and there’s a little museum with Nelson memorabilia here. Charlestown is a small, but bustling little town, which is quite picturesque with lots of old cut volcanic stone buildings.

Weather forecasts held true, so Saturday morning I dinghied in to Customs at 8 AM…but nobody was there? A fellow said he though the Customs officer would be there around 8:30, so I went back to the boat and got things on Avalon ready to go, and returned to Customs at 9. The office was still dark, so I wrote a note to Customs requesting them to clear us outbound for Montserrat…if we didn’t get started soon we might not make Montserrat by dark, and I’ve never been to the current anchorage there…I knew nobody would be manning the Customs office on Sunday, and the weather was forecast to deteriorate again on Monday, sort of forcing our hand.

Back to the boat, raised the sails, we’re on our way again! Goodbye Nevis, we had a great visit!

St. Kitts

The weather forecast looked good for the 45 mile hop from St. Barths to St. Kitts, and we were getting a little cranky with all the rocking and rolling in Gustavia harbor, so were glad to get under way. We had a nice 30 mile sail to the lush northern tip of St. Kitts, where we fell under the influence of the island and the wind dropped off, so turned the engine on, which recharged our batteries and heated up the water in our hot water heater = hot showers…yay!

The water is pretty deep right up to the western coast of St. Kitts, so we motored along only about a half mile or so offshore, providing us with a terrific close up look at the old fort at Brimstone Hill, rolling green hills and cloud covered mountains, and several villages. The cruising guide describes the harbor at Basseterre as being prone to swells, and after our experience at St. Barths we were really hoping for a calmer anchorage, so continued on for a couple mile to White House Bay, which was blessedly calm, and we anchored in 25’ of clear water, with only two other boats nearby. As the sun set a herd of goats ambled out onto the cliff overlooking the bay, and each settled into their own little spot for the night, then stars and later the Milky Way took over the clear, inky sky. We slept really well.

The next day (Sunday) we decided to take the dinghy to Basseterre to clear Customs (about a four mile ride), so we scooted along the mostly deserted coast at a good clip, and entered the new marina/cruise ship complex, which sits on land created by filling part of the old harbor. It’s pretty nicely done, but has that “Disney World/Epcot Center” artificial feel to it, and has most of the same stores you see in every cruise ship port. The Port and Customs officials were pleasant and helpful, but there wasn’t anyone from Immigration around, so we were told to “come back tomorrow.” Another interesting contrast to US DHS/CBP treatment.

We then walked around town, which is very pretty, with lots of original old colonial style buildings, although KFC and Domino’s stuck out like sore thumbs! Okay, I admit it…we went into Dominos and got a thin crust veggie pizza, and watched some of the Obama-mania on CNN. Really interesting how his election has captured the imagination of folks throughout the islands. Almost everything else was closed up, and we nearly had the town to ourselves. We bought a couple of bags of ice and hopped back into the dinghy for the ride back, which was into the wind and chop, making it a wet and bumpy ride home.

On Monday day we decided to take the dinghy ashore at the bay we were anchored and get to town via taxi (after walking up the hill towards town). Immigration was as easy as Customs ( I could get used to this!), and we were soon back walking around town, which was quite a different place with all the shops open , sidewalks filled with people and cars jamming the narrow streets. On Tuesday we listened to some of the inauguration hubbub and then President Obama’s inaugural address on the radio, which was pretty short and sweet, but seemed honest and on point to us. I’ve been reading “Hot, Flat and Crowded,” which supports a lot of what Obama discussed.

Wednesday brought our friend Valentina, who flew in from St. Croix to visit for a few days, so we rented a car to explore the island a little. The girls walked around town while I got water and ice and took it back to the boat. We met for lunch and bought “Ital” food from a Rasta lunch wagon (we had lunch there a couple days before), and ate in the nearby park. We toured a really beautiful old plantation house , Romney Manor, (home of Caribelle Batik), and the huge fortress at Brimstone Hill. We met a lot of really nice, pleasant and polite people, and had a great time!

The southern end of St. Kitts, where we anchored, is quiet and beautiful, but there are huge development plans afoot to turn the salt pond there into a major marina complex, and several of the surrounding hillsides have had roads carved into them for residential development. Very nice cottages and restaurant (The Beach House) has been established on a great little beach overlooking Nevis, primarily to serve as support for prospects for the real estate sales operation. We met the manager, Eustace Guishard, who used to run the resort at Cap Jaluca on Anguilla, he bought us drinks and engaged us in a lively discussion about chance meetings, Caribbean cuisine, and the challenges of ‘low impact” development in the Caribbean.

After dropping me off at the anchorage the ladies went off on their own, they toured Ottley Manor an old plantation estate which lies on the northern shore of the island, got lost and ended up at a funeral! They got back safe and sound and full of stories.

After Valentina departed we visited Customs again to check out, but they said we were okay to go to Nevis (this will resurface in the Nevis installment!), so we turned the car in and got a lift back to the boat. It was pretty windy, so we stayed put in our snug anchorage for a couple more days before heading over to Nevis, only about 7 miles away. One afternoon I took a hike over to the windward side of the island to see how rough the seas looked, and ran into a herd of goats, and then surprised a group of monkeys. It didn’t look too bad out there, and we have lots more islands to see, so it’s time to move on…goodbye St. Kitts!

Happy Cruisers

Happy Cruisers
Sunset off the coast of Culebra. Note Brian's relaxed look-think he is happy?

Welcome to Culebra

Welcome to Culebra
Entrance to Dewey, to the right is the little canal that takes you into the lagoon. This is where we stayed for a week.